Read why BudBox grow tents are so popular in the United Kingdom that this year they have already placed first for the sixth year in a row in the prestigious Garden Culture Magazine ranking. What do English growers, both professional and enthusiastic amateur, value most about them? And in which variants are they available so that everyone can choose the right one? If you are selecting a new grow box for indoor plant growing, you should definitely not miss this article!
The traditional English brand BudBox™ manufactures professional grow tents as well as grow tents for hobby growers. Since its founding in 2004, it has remained the most trusted name on the market for grow tents for indoor plant growing, as for many years it has supplied only grow boxes that are safe, of high quality, thoroughly tested, and proven in practice by thousands of satisfied growers, including the most demanding ones.
The long-term popularity of this manufacturer’s tents is certainly also due to the constant effort to innovate already high-quality models. The main advantages that will please anyone who wants to grow plants indoors include the following features:
The strongest frames (see below).
Opaque material.
Innovative access solutions for plants.
Above-standard ventilation openings (+ 20%). Here we must highlight that the ventilation and cable openings are cleverly designed, which you will certainly appreciate in practice.
Durable construction with a corrosion-resistant finish.
The fact that BudBox is literally an icon among grow tents is also helped by the massive range of individual variants, from which everyone can choose according to their individual needs or current budget! The wide spectrum of different sizes within the PRO product range offers customers a choice of two types of tents, which differ in the type of reflective material. The BudBox range also includes unusual grow tents with a sloping roof, as you can see in the introductory photograph.
BudBox White PRO are white grow tents, suitable for professionals and more demanding growers who are happy to pay extra for a perfect growing space for indoor plant growing with maximum reflectivity. So if your first priority is not the budget, but rather the question of which tent is best for you in terms of price-to-performance ratio or sufficiently robust and large, 28 grow box models from this product range will provide you with a sufficient answer. In the image below you can see, for comparison, the white BudBox PRO Intermediate 75x75x160cm.If you would like even more options, one alternative is also the tents we wrote about in a separate article: Design grow tents HOMEbox Ambient combine the pleasant with the useful.
BudBox Silver PRO are silver grow tents, more than sufficient for growing herbs, fruit or vegetables in the comfort of your home. These 28 models with silver Mylar inner reflective material have slightly lower reflectivity, but an even more attractive price tag. In the image below you can see, for comparison, BudBox PRO Intermediate 75x75x160cm - silver.
For both the white and silver BudBox tents, from the PRO XL variants (120x120) upwards, a green viewing window is included, so you can keep an eye on your crop at all times without having to physically enter the tent and unnecessarily disturb the optimal growing environment. The material used is 100% non-toxic even at higher temperatures. Other useful features are also worth mentioning:
Double cuff ventilation openings.
Shaded passive ventilation openings.
Drip tray.
Extra-strong, lightproof zips.
Double, stitched seams.
Practical access doors.
The canvas can be fully unzipped for easier cleaning.
Smaller BudBox tents
Do you only need a small tent for growing a few plants? Then try the bestseller among BudBox grow boxes in silver, which is the BudBox PRO Small (75x75x100cm). The BudBox PRO Medium (75x75x200cm) has the same base, but is twice as tall and also comes in white. This means that you can already grow taller plants in it. And yet its price is by no means excessive.
Larger BudBox tents
BudBox grow tents are generally characterised by excellent stability, and we mentioned above that they can also boast the strongest frames. Their construction consists of tempered steel with high tensile strength, and the 25 mm-thick tubes are finished with a black powder coating. These parameters apply to all models from PRO XL (120x120) up to the massive tents marked PRO Titan. The entire BudBox PRO range of grow tents is equipped with steel, push & click fit corner and pole connectors. Whatever your heavy hydroponic equipment needs, you would be hard pressed to find a stronger contender on the grow tent market than BudBox PRO.
If you want to grow a large number of plants, your priority, in addition to dimensions, will be ensuring the necessary load-bearing capacity, which the English manufacturer has achieved in its larger grow boxes by using 25 mm tubes made of premium steel and almost indestructible joints.
Among the white variants, our customers have most liked, for example, the BudBox PRO XXL+ (150x300x200cm), which brings them great comfort at home for harvesting fragrant herbs or juicy produce throughout the year. However, it is also sufficiently sophisticated and high quality to be used by experienced experts.
Your indoor garden can also be 9 metres long and over 2 metres high! The largest grow tents for professionals are marked Titan. If you have big plans (and budget), extra-large grow tents are also available to order, in which you will be pleasantly intoxicated by the beauty and fragrance of a large number of herbs or produce. Perhaps the most striking example is the 9-metre titan: BudBox PRO Titan IX (900x450x240cm).
When it comes to BudBox grow tents, the biggest challenge is choosing the right one from the incredibly wide range, because in terms of overall features they have not yet disappointed any grower. At least we do not know of anyone. All of them are also fully compatible with hydroponic systems or self-watering pots. Likewise with all growing methods. So that you can devote your time and energy to your plants as soon as possible, do not hesitate to ask us anything at the well-known e-mail address info@higarden.eu. We are here for you!
Are you dealing with unwanted odours drifting indoors from your grow tent? It is the right time to install an odour filter with activated carbon into the ventilation system. Effective carbon filters from the leading manufacturer Prima Klima are used not only in indoor plant cultivation, but also in industrial premises or in the home. This article introduces their features so that you can more easily choose the right one across the product ranges.
Depending on requirements and needs, filters from the Prima Klima brand cater to all customer categories and offer the right carbon solution, whether you prefer affordability or the longest possible odour filter lifespan. Regardless of the product range, they have long been a guarantee of high quality and reliability for customers. The German manufacturer, which produces these popular, high-quality odour filters in the Czech town of Radnice, does not take the environmental aspect lightly either and has long paid attention to sustainability in production. That is why Prima Klima odour filters with activated carbon are almost 100% recyclable.
Highly porous activated carbon as the basis
This is also related to the use of activated carbons, which perfectly absorb odour particles. CTC-75 carbon is a product of human activity and easily solves the problem of unwanted odours in enclosed spaces. If we enlarge this activated carbon from coconut shells under a microscope a thousand times (image on the left), we find that its porosity is much greater than in the case of commonly used activated carbon (image on the right).
We now come to the individual product ranges. Which are they?
The Pit Puk range represents a specific modular filtration system, characterised by excellent adsorption of odour particles using pellets of highly active virgin carbon. Adsorption is a process in which gaseous, liquid or solid particles (odour particles) accumulate on the surface (carbon layer). This type of carbon filter can be used for both intake and extract air. Depending on airflow, humidity level and the presence of organic compounds, expect an average service life of two years.
The unique odour-removal filtration system consists of the following parts:
PIT: plastic flange - an impact-resistant part made of high-quality, durable nylon (polyamide). This material is also non-flammable and completely odourless.
PUK: carbon filter cartridge - the activated carbon cartridges are easy to replace and can also be conveniently stored as needed.
How to assemble the Pit Puk filtration system is shown in the manufacturer's video. We recommend buying the complete PITPUK filtration system straight away: Prima Klima PITPUK Starter Kit 125 mm. In the image you can see what it looks like when connected to the extra powerful PK125ECblue fan.
The ECO Line filters provide reliable odour removal and are characterised by an excellent price-performance ratio, which is also the main reason why they have long been among the most popular on the market. They are the ideal choice if you do not know which odour filter to choose, as ECO Line filters are simply a timeless classic, with a whole range of variants to choose from. (At the end of this article, we will guide you so that you know what to look for when choosing a specific filter.)
To ensure an optimal level of air filtration, each filter in the ECO range has a 3 cm layer of highly active carbon with an area of >1200 m²/g and the same quality as in the professional Industry LINE filters.
Given the price, it is then a pleasant surprise that even the “economy” variants in this range are equipped with a pre-filter against dust.
Filters from the Prima Klima Eco range cannot be refurbished. Their service life is usually around 9 months. In some cases, it reaches one year. As with any filter, the above factors (airflow and humidity of the filtered air, impurities, etc.) can again affect it.
The premium INDUSTRY range includes professional carbon filters with a pre-filter against dust, which will satisfy even the needs of demanding customers. The refillable filters are characterised by a 4 cm thick bedof highly active CTC75 carbon with an area of >1200 m²/g, as well as a robust and stable steel construction. What can you expect if you pay extra for them?
Extra long contact time between air and the activated carbons. It is simple: longer contact allows better air purification. The result is an exceptional level of odour absorption.
The above-standard service life of these filters is usually in the range of 1.5–2 years, again depending on the factors mentioned above.
Finally, we have high-tech odour filters with a patented conical inner basket design, whose uniqueness is best illustrated by the manufacturer's video or our separate article: Prima Klima CARBOCONE: innovative activated carbon filters. In short, it is their unique structure, thanks to which they can boast the longest service life on the market. While the carbon layer of ordinary odour filters gradually fills with odour particles unevenly over time, the structure of Carbocone filters guarantees even saturation of the carbon. This brings the following benefits for users:
Lower consumption of activated carbon
The longest service life on the market (+ 30%)
Significantly more efficient absorption
Our TIP: Do not forget that the specific odour filter model should be chosen mainly according to the flange size or airflow. So if you are choosing your first activated carbon filter, be sure to read what to watch out for when selecting a carbon filter. For this purpose, we have prepared a separate article for you: Odour Filter – How to Choose?
We will also be happy to advise you on anything you are interested in, for example at the well-known e-mail address info@higarden.eu.
After a week, there is once again an opportunity to take a closer look at our shop’s range. Today we will focus on the popular LED lighting from the American brand Viparspectra. Technically advanced, lightweight and at the same time affordably priced LED luminaires have risen to the top of bestseller lists at many retailers around the world in recent years. Among other things, the manufacturer works closely with brands such as SAMSUNG and MEAN WELL. It invests heavily in its own research with the aim of using technological progress to improve the growing experience for herbs, fruit or vegetables in the comfort of home for as many customers as possible. Read on to find out how it has managed to win over more than 20 million growers from around the world at various levels over the past ten years!
Viparspectra is also a hit here. Proof of this is the best-selling LED luminaire in the form of the ViparSpectra PRO Series P600 model, which we will come back to later. First, however, let us briefly summarise what specifically connects the individual models and product ranges of Viparspectra LED lighting:
The defect rate for LED lighting by ViparSpectra does not even reach one tenth of one per cent, which is truly an impressive result given the genuinely massive production capacity. Incidentally, we can also mention that Viparspectra’s fully automated production plants, which have recently undergone costly modernisation, cover an area of approximately three football pitches.
Viparspectra has its own research and development team, and it must be said that it is made up entirely of top experts. Thanks to a team of 180 experts, the American manufacturer has full control over the development of each high-tech grow lamp. This is driven by considerable ambition to gradually outpace all competition. The products therefore undergo extensive testing, which is also reflected in the significant certifications (EC, UL). We can therefore also add the long service life of these LED luminaires to their exceptional reliability. Compared with discharge lamps, it is around 5 times longer!
A waterproof board and a perfectly designed
The third point relates to the general advantages of LED lighting, which include:
Full light spectrum, thanks to which you can make do with a single source of artificial lighting throughout the entire growing cycle, when plants receive light usable in the relevant life stage for rapid growth and comprehensive development. This means a light spectrum from infrared (730 nm) to almost ultraviolet (all wavelengths).
Low thermal emission. Because modern LED lighting, which certainly includes Viparspectra grow lamps, emits only a minimal amount of heat into its surroundings, even smaller grow boxes do not experience excessively high temperatures that could slow the healthy development of your plants.
The light source emitted by powerful LED diodes can also be placed closer to plants and make maximum use of the growing space available to you.
LED lamps by ViparSpectra do not only save space inside the grow tent or grow room, but are also defined by low electricity consumption and high efficiency. These features are further proof that the purchase cost of quality LED lighting will soon pay for itself. For every watt of input power, an LED lamp produces approximately 10 times more light than a light bulb, about 3 times more than a discharge lamp, and even roughly half again as much as a fluorescent tube.
It is worth bearing in mind that when growing under a discharge lamp, you also absolutely need a ballast and a shade (reflector). By purchasing a compact full-spectrum LED lamp, these costs fall away, regardless of the price at which we offer reliable and efficient ViparSpectra LED luminaires. That is why they are also a common choice for beginner growers, who would otherwise initially look for the cheapest, sufficient solution for a start and only later seek a more sophisticated light source. With ViparSpectra, even a beginner does not have to make compromises and can immediately give their plants full-spectrum lighting with even light distribution and stable PAR values, simulating natural sunlight for plants (Sun-like technology).
Our TIP: Thanks to their unquestionable quality, innovative LED lamps with a favourable price tag have also become part of our discounted 200W and 100WLED growing sets.
ViparSpectra plant lighting also offers the option of adjusting the lighting period (see photoperiod) according to the cultivated plant species. In practice, this allows growers to increase yields by up to half! The image shows a detail of the flexible dimming knob for controlling diode dimming on a luminaire from the XS range (see below). But do you know what is best about it? The built-in dimmer with light intensity regulation in the range of 15% - 100% is available not only on the more expensive and more powerful models, but also on the best-selling one - ViparSpectra PRO Series P600. And now look at its price tag. Especially at the beginning, compared with conventional luminaires, there is nothing to think about, is there?
VIPARSPECTRA grow lights
We can now move on to a detailed overview of the options that ViparSpectra offers growers within indoor plant cultivation. Both product ranges clearly demonstrate that, despite the long list of benefits, the initial investment in ViparSpectra LED lighting is by no means high.
The grow lights listed above are the most affordable in the VIPARSPECTRA range. That makes what you get for your money all the more impressive:
More power per watt, as already mentioned, means saving more than just a few pounds. The best-selling LED light P600, as well as the even more powerful variants, generates more light at lower energy use, which the plant can actually use for its development during the individual life stages from germination through growth and flowering to the ripening of juicy fruits. A high standard of efficiency is ensured by 4 types of top-quality Samsung LED diodes.
The entire PRO product range also features a powerful Sosen driver and a well-designed cooling system.
The LED luminaires in the Pro range can boast a waterproof board, which easily copes with increased humidity inside the growing space, and therefore these luminaires are fully compatible with any indoor growing environment. The waterproof design naturally increases the overall service life of the luminaire again.
The higher XS range is a step ahead of the previous PRO range. It has 5% higher output and at the same time brings 5% savings on electricity. However, many great features remain, from perfectly quiet operation through perfectly designed passive cooling to the waterproof board. So what does XS offer in addition to the PRO range?
Even better and newer diodes. The Pro range uses LM281B+ diodes, but the XS range uses even more advanced LM301B grow LEDs with high energy efficiency and the potential to increase your yields by up to 50%!
Another difference is the presence of a high-tech MEAN WELL driver, which gives more demanding growers yet another step up in lighting energy efficiency and lower electricity use. With long-term use of the luminaire and continuous, intensive operation, it becomes a guarantee of stable performance. It also contributes to the long service life, which for luminaires in the XS range exceeds 100,000 hours of lighting.
We can warmly recommend all ViparSpectra LED luminaires. The detailed description of each luminaire then allows you to read the detailed technical specifications and the small nuances between the individual variants.
The package always contains everything needed for easy and quick Plug & Play installation. If the LED lamps from this popular American brand have caught your interest and you are thinking of joining the more than 20 million satisfied growers, we will be happy to help you choose. We look forward to your questions at the well-known email address info@higarden.eu.
For many growers, the main advantage of indoor cultivation is the discretion that this method of plant cultivation offers. However, a grow room or grow tent can easily give itself away through compromising odours that may be bothersome or attract unwanted attention from the surroundings. In the following article, we will focus on methods that will help you effectively neutralise odour from a grow room or grow box.
Odour filters with activated carbon
Carbon filters that absorb odours are now part of the basic equipment of every grow room or grow tent. They work on a simple principle, where air from the extract fan passes through a cylinder filled with activated carbon, which captures the particles causing the odour.
Installation: Most growers connect the odour filter before the extract fan so that all air from the growing space comes into contact with the activated carbon. Air without odour then exits the ventilation duct outside the grow box or grow room. If the layout of your growing space does not allow this setup, you can also connect the filter at the end of the ventilation system in the direction of airflow. However, this method may not be as effective due to possible leaks in the ducting or tent. When installing an odour filter, you will need cable ties and ventilation ducting to connect the individual components.
Regular maintenance and replacement: Activated carbon filters are extremely effective, but they do not last forever. Roughly every 6-10 months or every three growing cycles, replace the worn odour filter with a new one. You can extend the service life of the carbon filter by cleaning or replacing the white protective fabric after each cycle, as it traps dust and solid particles.
Do you not want to worry about assembling a ventilation system for your grow box? We have prepared ventilation kits for you, which include an extract fan with a custom odour filter and all the accessories needed for installation.
Gels and sprays for odour neutralisation
Chemical products for odour neutralisation contain aromatic substances that release an intense fragrance while also absorbing other odours. Thanks to their easy handling, the main advantage of odour absorbers is their universal application. Another benefit is their immediate effect, which you will appreciate, for example, during harvest.
Use: To avoid affecting the terpene profile of the plants, we recommend placing chemical odour absorbers outside the growing area.
Automatic dispensers: We recommend placing the ONA Block Dispenser and other automatic dispensers near the entrance doors to the grow room or room with the grow box.
Further tips for odour control
In addition to using carbon filters and chemical odour neutralisers, you can take several simple measures that will further reduce unwanted odours in your grow room or grow box.
Adequate ventilation: Make sure that your growing space is sufficiently ventilated. It is important not only to have a sufficiently powerful extract fan, but also access to fresh air.
Seal all gaps: Leaks in the grow box or in the ventilation ducting are a common cause of unwanted odour. It is important that as much air as possible passes through the extract fan with the carbon filter.
Air ionisers:High-performance air ionisers are suitable for large growing rooms for medicinal plants. These are generators of negative ions that absorb odours and remove dust particles from the air.
Would you like to learn more about indoor growing and the most modern gardening techniques? You can find all this and much more on our Higarden blog!
When growing indoors, the transition from the vegetative phase to flowering is one of the most important moments in the entire cultivation cycle. A number of factors determine when the right time has come, and correct timing of the switch will greatly affect the quantity and quality of the harvest. We will guide you through the most important aspects of the transition to the flowering phase and advise on some advanced cultivation techniques that will help you achieve a better harvest.
What is the difference between the vegetative phase and flowering?
To begin with, let us clarify what we actually mean when we speak about switching or transitioning from the vegetative to the flowering phase. Plants go through four phases during their life: first they germinate, then they become seedlings, followed by the vegetative (growth) phase and finally flowering. While in the early stages of life plants focus on producing new leaves and roots so they can capture more sunlight and nutrients, during flowering they begin to form buds that mature into flowers, fruits and seeds.
But how do plants know when they should start flowering? Just as with the energy for photosynthesis, they rely on sunlight in this case too, which signals the change of seasons. In the case of short-day plants, the earlier the sun sets, the faster they move into flowering. In the case of long-day plants, it is the opposite. This phenomenon is called photoperiodism, and we discuss this topic in more detail in one of our previous articles on our blog.
Outdoors, plants do not need much help, but in indoor growing the alternation of day and night is in the gardener’s hands. The grower decides whether the light schedule keeps the plants in the vegetative stage or whether it is time for flowering. The critical length of day and night can vary between species, but for most short-day plants (which include most popular indoor crops, including medicinal and aromatic herbs) the trigger for the transition to flowering is shortening the day to 12 hours (12/12 schedule). During the vegetative phase, most growers maintain a light schedule of 16-18 hours of light and 6-8 hours of darkness.
What to watch out for when switching to flowering
Although indoor growers have a number of factors under control, the timing of the light switch often also depends on factors that we cannot fully influence. Plant height and shape, the condition of the root system and, where relevant, various horticultural techniques to which they have been exposed all play a role.
Plant height and shape
Many beginner growers underestimate how much plants will grow after switching to flowering. Some species and varieties can stretch to as much as three times their length during the first weeks of flowering. Always keep in mind how much space the plants have above them. During the vegetative phase, try to shape plants using pruning and other techniques so that after the switch they fill the entire growing area and as many tops or flowers as possible are exposed to light.
Root system
In addition to growing taller and producing new leaves, plants spend a large part of the vegetative phase developing their root system. The amount of space for roots will vary depending on the growing method, but whether you grow in hydroponics or in pots, you must not rush root growth. Once a plant starts flowering, it focuses most of its energy on bud formation and needs all the nutrients it can take up through its roots. If you switch to flowering too early, you will lose part of the harvest at the end of the cultivation cycle. There is no exact science to timing, but most plants need at least three weeks from transplanting to their final position before they can start flowering.
Advanced cultivation techniques
To maximise yields, many growers use various innovative techniques that influence plant growth and development. It should be added that not all of them are suitable for all species and varieties of plants, and we leave their use to the reader’s consideration.
Sea of Green (SOG)
The Sea of Green (SOG) method involves growing many small and short plants packed closely together. The aim is for the plants to start flowering as early as possible and not have time to form side branches. Growers using this technique usually switch to flowering when the plants are 15-30 cm tall. The result should be many plants with one main top.
Screen of Green (ScrOG)
Although it shares a similar abbreviation with the previous method, the Screen of Green technique is its exact opposite. ScrOG consists of placing a support net roughly 30-60 centimetres above the base of the plants and then weaving the tops through it so that the resulting canopy is spread out as much as possible. With this method, with a certain amount of patience and experience, it is possible to fill the entire growing space with a single plant or just a few plants.
Lollipopping
The very popular pruning method known as “lollipopping” consists of removing all branches from plants except those that are largest and promise the greatest yield. Supporters of the method point out that flowers in the lower and shaded parts often do not mature and it makes no sense for plants to waste energy and nutrients on them. Before you start pruning, make sure the plants are healthy and sufficiently developed so that you do not slow their growth.
If you are just starting out with growing, it can be difficult to estimate the correct hanging height for grow lights. How high you should hang the fixtures will depend not only on their output, but also on the age of the plants and other factors. In this article, we explain how to determine the hanging height of different types of lights according to the growth stage of the plants.
In indoor growing, light is one of the main factors affecting plant development. While the length of the light period determines whether plants will flower or invest energy in vegetative growth, light intensity is crucial for the amount of energy they obtain through photosynthesis. If plants receive just the right amount of light, they will grow quickly and develop according to their genetic potential. Too intense light will burn the leaves, and if there is too little light, they will have elongated stems and grow slowly.
The best way to measure the intensity of grow lights is by using photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD), which expresses the amount of active photons falling on a given surface per second (µmol/m²/s). The older the plants are, the more light they are able to use effectively for photosynthesis.
PPFD for seedlings: 200 to 400 µmol/m²/s
PPFD for plants in the vegetative growth stage: 400 to 600 µmol/m²/s
PPFD for the flowering stage: 600 to 1000 µmol/m²/s
With CO₂ supplementation: up to 1,000 µmol/s/m² during the growth period and up to 1,500 µmol/m²/s during the flowering period.
Grow LED lights are designed so that at a certain distance from the plants they cover the largest area at the ideal PPFD for growth and flowering. You will usually find this value in the manual. It is not recommended to illuminate a larger area than corresponds to the light’s output. You will end up with weak plants and slow growth. If you buy a light with a dimmer, you can easily change the intensity by turning the dial. If you have a fixture without dimming, hang the light high above the plants during the first days and weeks of the plants’ life and gradually move it closer.
Approximate hanging height of LED modules for different growth stages according to power input (W)
250 W HPS will effectively illuminate 0.3 m2 of growing area and you will achieve the optimal PPFD for growth and flowering at a distance of 30 cm from the tops of the plants
400 W HPS will effectively illuminate 0.5 - 1 m2 of growing area and you will achieve the optimal PPFD for growth and flowering at a distance of 30-40 cm from the tops of the plants
600 W HPS will effectively illuminate 1 – 1.4 m2 of growing area and you will achieve the optimal PPFD for growth and flowering at a distance of 40-50 cm from the tops of the plants
1000 W HPS will effectively illuminate 1 – 1.5 m2 of growing area and you will achieve the optimal PPFD for growth and flowering at a distance of 70 cm from the tops of the plants
Although it may sound complicated, after a few growing cycles you will easily recognise whether the plants are receiving just the right amount of light, too little or too much. The first signs of light burn are burnt tips or yellow faded spots on the leaves, usually around the tops closest to the fixture. If you notice such damage on the plants, reduce the light intensity. If you notice that the plants are weak, stretching towards the light or developing leaves without chlorophyll, give them more light. If you want to measure light intensity really accurately, equip yourself with a PAR metre.
You can find more useful tips and guides for indoor and outdoor growers on the Higarden blog.
Choose the right LED lighting based on the area it needs to illuminate, not just the wattage on the box. In this article, you’ll learn what PPF, PPFD, µmol/J and DLI mean, how much light tomatoes, chillies and lettuce need, what input power is suitable for your tent, and how to assess the spectrum, hanging height and dimming. At the end, you’ll find a comparison table of specific LED lights by tent size.
Start with your tent size
Grow LED manufacturers state a recommended area for each light, such as 80 × 80 cm or 1.2 × 1.2 m. The area is the first thing to consider:
Measure the inside dimensions of your tent or the area you want to illuminate.
Choose a light that the manufacturer recommends for this area. A light that is too small may not illuminate the edges sufficiently; a more powerful model can be dimmed as needed. PPFD distribution and the required DLI are what matter.
Only then compare efficiency, spectrum and features (dimming, control, protection rating).
For the lights in our comparison table below, input power at full output is generally 280–420 W per m² of growing area. It is higher for the smallest tent size, 60 × 60 cm: for example, the SANlight EVO LED Set 60 has an input power of 200 W for 0.36 m². The manufacturer recommends dimming this small set because full output may be too high, particularly for young plants. However, watts are only a rough guide. The light’s efficiency determines how much light it produces from its wattage.
PPF, PPFD, µmol/J and DLI: what they mean
The traditional photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) range is 400–700 nm. Longer wavelengths can also be useful for photosynthesis when combined with light in this range; see the section on far-red. So, for grow lights, look for these figures rather than lumens or lux:
Measurement
What it means
PPF (µmol/s)
The amount of photons in the PAR range emitted by a light per second. It is expressed in micromoles per second, not watts.
PPFD (µmol/m²/s)
The number of micromoles of these photons that fall on 1 m² per second at plant level. It is measured with a PAR metre and depends on the hanging height.
Efficiency (µmol/J)
The number of micromoles of photons in the stated spectral range emitted by a light per 1 joule of electricity consumed. Compare the complete light, including its power supply, and make sure the spectral range is the same.
DLI (mol/m²/day)
The total amount of light received per 1 m² each day. It combines light intensity (PPFD) and lighting duration.
For constant or time-averaged PPFD during the lighting period, the conversion is: DLI = PPFD × number of lighting hours × 3,600 / 1,000,000. To calculate the average PPFD you need, use the reverse formula: PPFD = DLI × 1,000,000 / (hours × 3,600).
How much light do plants need?
University recommendations are usually given as DLI. We calculated the average PPFD in the table from these figures, based on 16 hours of lighting per day. Treat the values as a guide; they vary depending on the variety, temperature and other conditions.
Crop and stage
DLI (mol/m²/day)
PPFD at 16 h (µmol/m²/s)
Source
Lettuce and cucumber seedlings
10–15
174–260
Purdue University
Tomato and pepper seedlings
15–20
260–347
Purdue University
Hydroponic lettuce with good air circulation
17
295
Cornell University
Fruiting tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers
at least 15, preferably over 20
at least 260, preferably over 347
Michigan State University
For lettuce, Cornell recommends a DLI of 17 only when there is good air circulation around the growing leaves. Without it, the recommendation is a lower DLI of 13–14, as rapid growth can lead to tipburn, or marginal necrosis of young leaves, when the growing point does not receive enough calcium. More light is not always better. Fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes and chillies, on the other hand, can tolerate and make use of more light. We cover growing chillies under a lamp in detail in the article How to grow chilli peppers under artificial lighting.
How many watts of LED lighting for a tent: comparison table
Input power of the LED lights in the table by tent size
The table lists LED lights from our range, ordered by their indicative recommended area. Input power, photon flux and efficiency are taken from catalogue information; for the Varidrive range, the figures have only been verified against the Higarden listing. The recommended area alone does not determine whether a light is suitable for a specific crop: also compare PPFD, lighting duration and DLI. For SANlight, the asterisk indicates photon flux in the wider 400–780 nm range and efficiency calculated by dividing photon flux by the input power of the complete light. The manufacturer’s stated module efficiency of over 3 µmol/J applies to LED modules, not the complete light. These figures therefore cannot be directly compared with PPF and efficiency for PAR at 400–700 nm.
Indicative input power based on the table:
80 × 80 cm tent: 200–265 W
100 × 100 cm tent: 300–400 W
120 × 120 cm tent: 475–530 W
150 × 150 cm tent: 640–720 W
The “Photon flux per m²” column shows the light’s declared photon flux divided by the tent area. It is not a PPFD measurement: it does not account for the light’s geometry, losses or reflections from the walls. For the Lumatek ATS 200W PRO, this calculation gives 794 µmol/m²/s, while the manufacturer’s catalogue gives an average PPFD of approximately 511 µmol/m²/s at a height of 40 cm, with no wall reflections and at full output. For the ATS 300W PRO, the calculation gives 816, while the catalogue average is approximately 572 µmol/m²/s under the same conditions. In these two examples, the measured figure is roughly 64–70% of the simple calculated value; this is not a universal conversion factor for other installations.
The SANlight EVO sets in the table for areas from 1 × 1 m use two lights. According to the manufacturer, their positioning and angling can provide more even lighting; the actual result depends on the installation.
Efficiency in µmol/J: why it matters
Efficiency determines how much you pay for electricity to get the same amount of light. For comparison:
HID lamps: In Nelson and Bugbee’s 2014 study, the most efficient double-ended HPS lights achieved about 1.7 µmol/J. An older reference light with a large screw base and magnetic ballast had an efficiency of 1.02 µmol/J; this is not a figure for all HPS lights.
Minimum for certification: Version 4.0 of the DesignLights Consortium (DLC) programme requires a declared efficiency of at least 2.5 µmol/J in the 400–700 nm range. Version 3.0 set the threshold at 2.3 µmol/J. This is a condition for inclusion on the DLC list, not a general requirement for lights sold in the Czech Republic.
Catalogue LED efficiency: For Lumatek, Maxibright Daylight PRO and Varidrive, the table lists 2.5–3.1 µmol/J based on supplier information. Catalogue figures may not exactly match the stated PPF divided by input power; for example, for the ATS 200W PRO, 508 / 208 works out at approximately 2.44 µmol/J. For SANlight, the figure is calculated for a wider range and marked with an asterisk.
Technology estimate from 2020: Kusuma, Pattison and Bugbee estimated that the technology available at the time could achieve an efficiency of around 3.4 µmol/J for lights with white and red diodes. According to the authors, protective optics against water and humidity reduce this by approximately 10%. This is not a universal physical limit for all LEDs.
For example, to produce the 1990 µmol/s output of the Lumatek Zeus 600W PRO 3.1, a light with an efficiency of 3.1 µmol/J needs about 642 W. At 2.5 µmol/J, it would need about 796 W, and at 1.7 µmol/J, about 1171 W. You pay the difference every day the lights are on, and higher input power also means more heat in the tent. Read our article Growing under artificial lighting: HPS vs. LED for a comparison of older HID lamps and LEDs.
Spectrum: full spectrum, red and far-red
The catalogue information for the lights in the table states that they provide a full spectrum for both growth and flowering. You therefore usually do not need to change the light source between these stages. For example, the Lumatek ATS PRO combines white, red and far-red diodes.
Far-red (700–750 nm): This lies just beyond the PAR range. According to the study by Zhen, van Iersel and Bugbee (2021), when combined with standard light, far-red photons contribute to photosynthesis in a crop just like PAR photons, up to a share of about 30% of the photons. The authors therefore propose an extended 400–750 nm range (ePAR). Far-red is included in lights such as the Maxibright Daylight PRO and Lumatek ATS PRO.
Supplementary bars: Lumatek offers separate far-red and UV bars for Zeus lights. According to the manufacturer, the far-red bar is used during vegetative growth and at the start of flowering, and the UV bar towards the end of flowering.
For small areas of seedlings, herbs and Microgreens, lower-output bars and panels may be sufficient if they provide the required PPFD and DLI. We cover them in more detail in the article Choosing lighting for growing Microgreens.
Hanging height and uniformity
The higher the light hangs, the larger the area it illuminates, but the lower the intensity at plant level. Choose the distance and dimming level according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and PPFD measurements; you do not necessarily have to address the higher intensity needed at a later stage simply by lowering the panel.
Start with the manufacturer’s manual. Recommended distances vary by model and growth stage.
Check with measurements. A PAR metre, such as the Apogee SQ-520 or Maxibright PAR Metre, measures the actual PPFD at leaf level. Take measurements in the centre and in the corners.
Dimming lets you use the same light for seedlings and fully grown plants, and save electricity where plants do not need full output.
Stepped dimming: Lumatek ATS and Zeus lights include a 0–10 V dimmer with off, 25, 50, 75 and 100% settings. Maxibright Daylight PRO has a remote dimmer with 25/50/75/100% settings, while Varidrive has an integrated dimmer from 25–100%.
Controllers: Connect a controller through a compatible control interface, such as the Maxibright Universal Lighting Controller 0-10V. According to the product description, it schedules lighting, simulates sunrise and sunset, and can dim lights in the event of overheating. The RJ connector shape alone does not guarantee compatibility; the Daylight range uses the iLink system and the relevant Daylight controller. Find other models in the controllers category.
Timer: For high-power LEDs with an integrated driver, we recommend controlling the lighting through a controller (see the descriptions of Lumatek Zeus lights). If you use a timer, its wiring and switching capacity must comply with the manual and the driver’s inrush current requirements. The inrush current must also be checked for lights below 600 W; the input power rating alone is not enough.
How many watts of LED lighting do I need for a 100 × 100 cm tent?
The lights that manufacturers recommend for an area of 1 × 1 m have an input power of 300–400 W in our table, for example the Maxibright Daylight PRO 300W (750 µmol/s) or the SANlight EVO LED Set 100 (1090 µmol/s). Focus on comparing PPF and efficiency, not just watts.
Is one powerful light better, or two smaller ones?
Both options work as long as the light covers the entire area. According to SANlight, two suitably positioned and angled lights can improve uniformity. One light usually makes hanging and cabling simpler.
Is full spectrum enough for both growth and flowering?
Yes. According to the catalogue information, the lights in the table are intended for both growth and flowering; adjust the intensity to suit the crop and its stage of development. Supplementary far-red or UV bars are optional.
How can I find out how much light the plants are actually receiving?
Measure PPFD with a PAR metre at the height of the upper leaves, both in the centre and in the corners of the tent. Use the average and the number of lighting hours to calculate DLI, then compare it with the recommendation for your crop.
Is it worth paying more for an LED with higher efficiency?
Higher efficiency reduces running costs, but the payback also depends on the purchase price, lighting duration and electricity price. With the same spectral range and the same amount of photons delivered, a light rated at 3.1 µmol/J needs about one-fifth less electricity than a light rated at 2.5 µmol/J and, in the same position, usually produces less heat.
Choose an LED for your tent
Measure the area, choose a light from the corresponding row in the table, and check its efficiency and dimming options. Browse the full range in the LED grow lights category, and the most powerful models in the Lumatek Zeus, SANlight EVO and Maxibright Varidrive categories. If you are unsure, contact us or visit one of our shops—we’ll be happy to advise you on your setup.
One of the main attractions of indoor growing is that you can cultivate all year round, regardless of the whims of the weather. However, it is not entirely true that indoor growers are unaffected by the changing seasons. Even a small drop in temperature in the growing area causes fluctuations in VPD and slows down plant metabolism. You can learn how to prevent this in the following article.
Most plants grown indoors grow best at temperatures in the range of 21-29 °C, with the difference between day and night temperatures not exceeding 5 °C. As soon as temperatures fall, plants slow down their metabolism and the rate of photosynthesis. This means that even if we provide them with a large amount of energy in the form of light, they will not be able to use it to produce sugars and will grow more slowly than they would at higher temperatures. If the temperature drops below 15 °C, plants stop growing and remain stunted.
Plants also respond to low temperatures by slowing transpiration, that is, the rate at which they evaporate excess water through their leaves. Transpiration is crucial for the transport of nutrients and water. A smaller volume of water evaporated through the leaves means that plants use less water, but at the same time they stop taking up nutrients from the substrate or nutrient solution. The result is again slower growth and also an increased risk of overwatering substrates and root rot.
Growing at lower temperatures can also bring some advantages, especially in the prevention of pests and mould. Cold air retains less moisture and is drier than warm air. This can be useful in preventing moulds such as powdery mildew or Botrytis cinerea, which causes flower rot. At low temperatures, some insect pests, such as spider mites or aphids, also reproduce more slowly. However, remember that if the temperature drops below 15 °C, plant metabolism stops completely and they cease to grow.
The effect of low temperatures on VPD
Plants are affected by the temperature and humidity of the air surrounding them. Air temperature affects transpiration and relative humidity plays a significant role in CO2 uptake, which is important in the process of photosynthesis. The effects of climatic conditions on plants are best expressed by vapour pressure deficit (VPD). We covered this topic in detail in an older article on our blog. VPD values are derived from the temperature and relative humidity of the air in the growing area, and even small fluctuations in temperature (+-1 °C) or humidity (+-5 % RH) can represent significant changes in vapour pressure deficit. If you use VPD as a guide when growing plants indoors, it is extremely important to maintain a consistently stable and optimal temperature and humidity in the growing area.
How to keep the grow box sufficiently warm
During winter, you have several options for increasing the temperature in the grow box. The simplest and cheapest solutions consist of insulation, or alternatively blowing in warm air or moving the grow tent to another location. Slightly more expensive (but more reliable) is heating the growing space with a heater or replacing the grow lighting.
Insulate the grow box: Before you start heating the growing area, make sure that the grow box seals properly and check all zips so that warm air does not escape. If pots or the irrigation system stand on a cold floor, place them on a suitable insulating material, such as polystyrene.
Use warm air from another part of the house: During the winter months, it may be advantageous to bring warm air from heated rooms into the growing area. It is also a good idea to place the grow tent closer to heat sources, for example next to a radiator.
Heaters for the grow box: If insulation and the supply of warm air are not enough, consider getting a suitable heater. For grow boxes, tubular greenhouse heaters are particularly suitable, or hanging heaters. Most heaters are equipped with a thermostat, which keeps the temperature in the growing area stable. Heating the room in which the grow tent stands can also be a solution. Oil-filled or electric radiators are suitable.
Switch to another type of grow lighting: Modern LED grow lights stand out for their efficiency and therefore do not emit too much heat into the surroundings. Older grow lights using sodium discharge lamps (HPS) emit a considerable amount of heat, which can be an advantage in the winter months.
Whether you decide on insulation, moving the grow box, or investing in heating and new lighting, always keep in mind that a stable temperature is the key to success. For more tips and tricks on how to grow even in the winter months, visit our Higarden blog.
Plant cultivation can take many forms, from traditional outdoor growing, through greenhouses, to indoor cultivation under artificial lighting. Each of these methods offers unique advantages, but also has some disadvantages. In today’s article, we will look at the differences in the light spectrum when growing outdoors, in a greenhouse, and indoors under LED grow lights.
Plants perceive light through photosensors called photoreceptors. Most of them are responsible for capturing light photons and converting them into energy during the process of photosynthesis. However, plants are also equipped with specialised photoreceptors that function differently from the others, do not always take part in photosynthesis, and some of them even detect light outside the visible light spectrum. These photoreceptors are important for plants because they affect circadian processes, developmental signals, gene regulation, and much more.
Different colours of light
To understand the light spectrum, it is important to realise that light is electromagnetic radiation, which can be characterised both as a particle (photon) and as a wave. Individual types of electromagnetic radiation are divided according to wavelength and the corresponding frequency. The term “spectrum” originally referred to the colour spectrum visible to the human eye (the colours of the rainbow), but over time other types of radiation were also discovered that people cannot perceive visually.
Visible light: The visible part of the light spectrum with wavelengths of 400-800 nanometres. The individual colours in the light spectrum are called spectral colours (red, orange, yellow, green, cyan, blue, violet).
Photosynthetically active radiation: PAR (photosynthetic active radiation) overlaps with visible light and refers to the range of light wavelengths (400 to 700 nanometres) that plants use for photosynthesis. Most LED grow lights include only photosynthetically active wavelengths.
UV: Ultraviolet radiation (400-10 nanometres) is dangerous for both people and plants, damages DNA, and can cause cancerous growth. Most UV radiation is captured by the Earth’s atmosphere, but a small amount reaches the surface.
Infrared radiation: Infrared radiation has a wavelength between 760 nanometres - 1 nanometres and is further divided into near-IR, mid-IR, and far-IR.
X-rays: X-ray radiation with wavelengths of 10 – 0.1 nanometres is used in practice thanks to its ability to penetrate a range of materials (radiography, CT). It has no significance for plant cultivation.
Gamma radiation: Radioactive radiation that arises during nuclear processes. It has no significance for plant cultivation.
Outdoor growing: All colours of light
It will probably surprise no one if we say that natural sunlight is the most complex and covers the widest possible spectrum. Plants grown outdoors are exposed not only to the visible part of the light spectrum, including photosynthetically active radiation, but also to infrared, UV, and other types of radiation. While the effects of extremely short or extremely long light wavelengths are not very well documented in relation to plants, some of the invisible wavelengths, such as UV and far-red radiation, can be crucial for plants, even though they do not affect photosynthesis.
Greenhouses: The absence of UV radiation
Greenhouses can be made from various types of glass or even plastics, which may have different effects on the light passing through the material. In general, however, glass transmits most of the light spectrum, but naturally blocks a significant part of UV and lower-wavelength radiation. In this sense, greenhouses can be considered semi-permeable, and the absence of UV light can affect plants, for example in the production of terpenes or active compounds.
It is known that in some plants UV radiation stimulates the production of secondary metabolites. There are theories that such plants produce more of these substances because they act as natural protection against the destructive impact of UV rays on DNA. In addition, the unusual photoreceptor UVR8 has been discovered, which is directly activated by UV-B radiation and detects light with a wavelength of (280-320 nanometres). This photoreceptor consists of two UVR8 molecules, which separate after exposure to UV-B and become monomers, changing its function and leading to changes including increased stress resistance, gene function, and the development of the plant.
The absence of UV radiation does not threaten plants’ survival, but it can significantly affect how they cope with stress and pass through individual stages of life. For these reasons, some growers in greenhouses and indoors use special grow lights that enrich the light spectrum with UV-A and UV-B radiation.
Indoor: PAR tailored to plants
Most modern LED grow lights emit a standardised light spectrum corresponding to the wavelengths of PAR radiation (400–700 nanometres). Such a spectrum is more than sufficient for plants to thrive under artificial lighting, and under certain circumstances they may grow faster than they would outdoors or in a greenhouse. On the other hand, the spectrum of LED grow lights lacks not only UV, but also infrared light.
The amount of infrared light reaching plants grown outdoors or in a greenhouse changes throughout the day and year depending on the sun’s movement across the sky, because the angle at which light passes through the atmosphere changes. Plants use this fact to control their circadian rhythms and, thanks to specialised photoreceptors called phytochromes, they can recognise, for example, when it is time to start flowering. Therefore, when growing indoors under artificial lighting, plants may begin flowering a little more slowly (when switching to 12/12) than they would outdoors. As with UV radiation, you can also supplement the infrared spectrum in a grow room or greenhouse using supplementary lighting with an infrared spectrum.
More and more people are taking up indoor growing under artificial lighting. Beginner growers usually do not want to start with large projects straight away and look for compact LED lights that are suitable for smaller grow boxes. In its range, the manufacturer Maxibright LED focuses precisely on energy-efficient and highly powerful LED grow lights. Can its range compete with established brands such as Lumatek or SANlight? We answer this in the following lines.
Daylight from Maxibright is a range of full-spectrum LED grow lights with dimmable LUMLED LED chips. These lightweight lights are available in 300 W versions (suitable for a growing area of 1 m²) and 200 W (area of 0.8 m²) and are ideal as a universal light source for plants in the vegetative growth stage, flowering, as well as for cuttings and germination indoors.
Main advantages of Maxibright Daylight LED lights
Unique construction: The optimal arrangement of LED diodes along the entire structure creates an even spread of light at a short distance from the tops of the plants, which allows sufficient penetration through the canopy without creating hot spots.
Passive cooling: The innovative passive heatsink naturally dissipates heat without the need for a fan. As a result, the unit is quieter and also significantly extends the life of the light, because it has no moving parts.
Full spectrum: The Daylight range uses a combination of white, red and far-red diodes to create a highly efficient light source that is very similar to natural sunlight. Older generations of LED grow lights used a combination of blue and red diodes, which was effective, but omitted parts of the spectrum important for healthy plant growth, did not penetrate the canopy sufficiently and provided poor visibility in growing spaces.
Maxibright Daylight range
The basic Maxibright Daylight range includes two lights with input power of 200 W and 300 W, both with high efficiency of 2.3 µmol/J. Both units offer high PPF values (200 W – 460 µmol/s, 300 W 690 µmol/s) comparable to the most powerful LED lights available on the market. These lights also compare well with the competition in other parameters, such as service life (up to 50,000 hours of operation) or dimming capability.
Beginner growers and those looking for compact LED lights for smaller grow boxes at a reasonable price will especially appreciate the simplicity and efficiency of the Maxibright Daylight range. The 200 W model is ideal for a growing area of up to 0.8 m², while the more powerful 300 W version is suitable for an area of up to 1 m².
The more modern Daylight PRO Full Spectrum range is made using the latest generation of LUMLED diodes, which increase efficiency to 2.5 µmol/J, matching even the currently most powerful lights in the same category LUMATEK ATS PRO. The units also impress with high PPF values (200 W - 500 460 µmol/s, 300 W – 750 460 µmol/s) and even coverage.
Other improvements in the new range include IP65 protection, which means the lights have the highest level of protection against dust and are able to withstand splashing water. Of course, dimming is also possible, as is the installation of an external remote controller.
Although there are slight differences between the Daylight and Daylight PRO Full Spectrum ranges, we can recommend these LED grow lights with a clear conscience. Those of you who are just starting with indoor growing will appreciate the simplicity, efficiency and lower price of the lights from the Maxibright Daylight range. Maxibright Daylight PRO is the right choice for those aiming for professional results and those looking for lighting that is highly resistant to external influences.
Carbon filters that absorb odours are now part of the basic equipment of every grow room or grow tent. They work on a simple principle, where air from the extract fan passes through a cylinder filled with activated carbon, which captures the particles causing the odour.
Chemical products for odour neutralisation contain aromatic substances that release an intense fragrance while also absorbing other odours. Thanks to their easy handling, the main advantage of odour absorbers is their universal application. Another benefit is their immediate effect, which you will appreciate, for example, during harvest.
When growing indoors, the transition from the vegetative phase to flowering is one of the most important moments in the entire cultivation cycle. A number of factors determine when the right time has come, and correct timing of the switch will greatly affect the quantity and quality of the harvest. We will guide you through the most important aspects of the transition to the flowering phase and advise on some advanced cultivation techniques that will help you achieve a better harvest.
Advanced cultivation techniques
Plants are affected by the temperature and humidity of the air surrounding them. Air temperature affects transpiration and relative humidity plays a significant role in CO2 uptake, which is important in the process of photosynthesis. The effects of climatic conditions on plants are best expressed by vapour pressure deficit (VPD). We covered this topic in detail in an older article on our blog. VPD values are derived from the temperature and relative humidity of the air in the growing area, and even small fluctuations in temperature (+-1 °C) or humidity (+-5 % RH) can represent significant changes in vapour pressure deficit. If you use VPD as a guide when growing plants indoors, it is extremely important to maintain a consistently stable and optimal temperature and humidity in the growing area.
Insulate the grow box: Before you start heating the growing area, make sure that the grow box seals properly and check all zips so that warm air does not escape. If pots or the irrigation system stand on a cold floor, place them on a suitable insulating material, such as polystyrene.
To understand the light spectrum, it is important to realise that light is electromagnetic radiation, which can be characterised both as a particle (photon) and as a wave. Individual types of electromagnetic radiation are divided according to wavelength and the corresponding frequency. The term “spectrum” originally referred to the colour spectrum visible to the human eye (the colours of the rainbow), but over time other types of radiation were also discovered that people cannot perceive visually.
Greenhouses can be made from various types of glass or even plastics, which may have different effects on the light passing through the material. In general, however, glass transmits most of the light spectrum, but naturally blocks a significant part of UV and lower-wavelength radiation. In this sense, greenhouses can be considered semi-permeable, and the absence of UV light can affect plants, for example in the production of terpenes or active compounds.
important for healthy plant growth, did not penetrate the canopy sufficiently and provided poor visibility in growing spaces.
The more modern Daylight PRO Full Spectrum range is made using the latest generation of LUMLED diodes, which increase efficiency to 2.5 µmol/J, matching even the currently most powerful lights in the same category LUMATEK ATS PRO. The units also impress with high PPF values (200 W - 500 460 µmol/s, 300 W – 750 460 µmol/s) and even coverage.