How to Grow Microgreens at Home: A Step-by-Step Guide

12/08/2026

Microgreens are young vegetable and herb plants harvested once their cotyledons have opened, often as the first true leaves begin to appear. At home, you can usually grow them on a bright windowsill or under LED lighting in one to three weeks; slower varieties take longer. This guide covers the equipment you will need, the process step by step, a table of suitable varieties and tips on how to prevent mould.

What are microgreens, and how do they differ from sprouts?

Microgreens are edible vegetable and herb seedlings. They are grown in a growing medium or on a growing mat, need light and, depending on the variety, are harvested once their cotyledons have opened or as the first true leaves begin to appear. Only the parts above the surface are cut: the stems and leaves. The roots remain in the tray.

Sprouts are germinated seeds without true leaves. They are usually grown without a growing medium, with regular rinsing in water, and do not need light to grow. They are generally eaten whole, including the seed and root. For detailed instructions on growing sprouts, see the article Sprouts or microgreens: a guide to home growing.

What you will need

A shallow tray with drainage, such as the Garland Microgreens Tray with drainage, and a plant saucer without holes underneath for bottom watering.
A growing medium: seed compost without garden soil, such as Canna Terra Seed Mix, or the Grodan Cress Plate growing mat.
Seeds intended for microgreens, untreated with chemicals and suitable for this way of eating. You can find them in the microgreens seeds category.
A germination cover, such as the Garland lid with ventilation flaps, or a second tray.
A sprayer, such as the 2 L pressure sprayer.
Lighting: a bright windowsill or LED grow light, such as the GENT G-LED 42W for microgreens, according to the online shop description.
Clean, sharp scissors for harvesting.

Would you rather not put everything together yourself? Choose a ready-made microgreens growing kit. For example, according to the online shop description, the kit without seeds includes a tray, growing medium and cover, and you can choose the seeds yourself.

Step-by-step instructions

Infographic: approximate values for microgreens – soak selected seeds for 6–12 h, keep the growing medium moist, temperature 21–24 °C, light for about 16 h a day, typical harvest in 7–21 days; timing depends on the variety — Approximate values; harvest timing and other conditions vary depending on the variety and equipment

Soaking. Selected seeds, such as peas and sunflowers, can be soaked for 6–12 h before sowing to speed up germination. The University of Maryland also recommends this method for maise, chickpeas, beetroot, chard, coriander, mung beans and buckwheat. It is not necessary for every variety; follow the seed supplier’s instructions first.
Growing medium. For the growing-medium method, a layer of 2.5–3.8 cm (1 to 1.5 inches) is commonly used; choose a tray deep enough to accommodate it and level the surface. For the low Garland tray listed above, which is 3 cm high, adjust the amount of medium to its internal depth or use a growing mat. The medium should be moist, not wet. Do not use garden soil. Moisten the Grodan Cress Plate before sowing and allow it to drain according to the manufacturer’s instructions; a nutrient solution is specified for this mat. Then sow the seeds evenly over the surface.
Sowing. Sow densely; microgreens are not thinned out. For a tray measuring approximately 25 × 51 cm (10 × 20 inches), 10–15 g of seeds may be a starting amount for some small-seeded varieties. This sowing rate does not apply to peas or sunflowers; determine the amount according to the variety, germination rate and supplier’s recommendations. Press the seeds gently into the surface. Sow only one variety in each tray, as each grows at a different rate.
Germination in the dark. Cover the tray to retain warmth and moisture. A temperature of 21–24 °C is a general guide for germination and growth for many varieties; conditions vary between varieties. For some varieties, you can leave the seedlings in the dark for a short time after germination to lengthen the stems and make harvesting easier. Choose the duration according to the variety; do not let the crop become weak and fall over. Ventilate the cover from time to time to reduce the risk of mould. A transparent lid alone will not provide darkness.
Light. Then move the microgreens into the light, for about 16 h a day as a general guide. The distance between the LED and the plants depends on the light intensity and the design of the fixture: with lower-powered grow lights, it is usually approximately 15–30 cm above the leaves; always follow the instructions for the specific model. Use a timer to switch the light on and off.
Watering. For the first few days, simply mist the seeds with a sprayer. Then water from below into the plant saucer or carefully from above. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet.
Harvesting. Microgreens are usually harvested 7–21 days after sowing; slower varieties, such as coriander, may take longer. Depending on the variety, harvest once the cotyledons have opened or as the first true leaves begin to appear. Harvest height depends on the variety. The University of Maryland gives a typical height of 5.1–7.6 cm (2–3 inches), but this is not a required height for every variety. Cut with clean scissors above the growing medium so that none gets into the harvest.

Which varieties to grow

Popular varieties for beginners include radish, peas and sunflowers. Brassicas such as radish, broccoli and mustard germinate quickly: under suitable conditions at around 22 °C, they may start to germinate in about 36 hours. This is not guaranteed for every seed lot; full emergence may take longer. Lettuce, rocket and mustard tolerate lower light levels than some other varieties, but even on a windowsill they still need plenty of light.

Variety	Soak before sowing?	What to look out for
Peas	usually yes, 6–12 h	large seeds; sow densely and press down
Sunflower	usually yes, 6–12 h	large seeds; a few days in the dark will lengthen the stems
Coriander, beetroot	follow the seed instructions; soaking is optional	soaking speeds up germination; sow each variety separately
Radish	usually no	a brassica; germinates quickly
Broccoli	usually no	a brassica; germinates quickly
Rocket, mustard	usually no	tolerate lower light levels; the windowsill must still be bright enough

Find more varieties and ready-made mixes in the microgreens seeds category.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Mould and damping off. Dense growth creates ideal conditions for seedling diseases. Keep trays clean, sow at a reasonable density, keep the growing medium moist but not wet, and provide gentle airflow, for example with a small fan nearby. Ventilate the cover regularly during germination. Find out more about prevention in the article How to prevent mould.
Long, weak stems that fall over. Sowing too densely leads to long, weak stems. Check the sowing density and give the seedlings enough light after germination. We explain how to choose lighting in the article Choosing lighting for growing microgreens.
Treated seeds. Use untreated seeds intended for growing microgreens. The label “untreated” alone does not confirm that they are suitable for eating young plants raw. Treated seeds may leave chemical residues in small seedlings.
Garden soil. Use seed compost or a growing mat for microgreens, not soil from the garden.

Harvest and storage

Cut only the stems and leaves, leaving the roots in the tray. Make the cut high enough above the growing medium to keep it out of the harvest. With a typical low cut, microgreens are grown for a single harvest. Some varieties may produce a smaller second harvest if cut higher, but this is not guaranteed. For another batch, clean the tray and sow again; do not expect every variety to regrow.

It is best to use harvested microgreens as soon as possible. If storing them in the fridge, keep them clean and dry in a sealed container; wash them under running drinking water just before eating. The University of Maryland states that they can be stored for up to 10 days, but this is not a guarantee of shelf life: it depends on the variety, hygiene and cooling. Discard them if they show signs of spoilage.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between microgreens and sprouts?

Sprouts are germinated seeds without true leaves and are eaten whole. Microgreens grow in a growing medium or on a mat in the light, and the parts above the surface are cut, including the cotyledons and, in some cases, the first true leaves.

How long until I can harvest them?

Usually 7–21 days after sowing; many fast-growing varieties are ready in 7–14 days. Slower varieties take longer. The variety, temperature and other conditions all make a difference.

Do microgreens need fertiliser?

For short-term home growing in suitable seed compost, additional feeding is often not needed. With an inert mat, however, follow the manufacturer’s instructions: the Grodan Cress Plate instructions include using a nutrient solution. Clean water is therefore not a universal recommendation for every growing medium.

Can microgreens be grown on a windowsill alone?

Yes, if the windowsill provides enough light. LED lighting can supplement or replace sunlight. The starting recommendation is about 16 h a day, from a window, LED lighting or both; lighting duration alone cannot compensate for insufficient intensity.

Will microgreens regrow after harvesting?

With a typical low cut, do not expect another harvest. Some varieties may regrow partially if their growing points are left intact. For a reliable new batch, clean the tray and sow new seeds.

Get started today

A ready-made microgreens growing kit is an easy way to get started; for example, the kit with Affyla peas, according to the online shop description. If you want to grow more, put together your own setup from the microgreens equipment. We will be happy to help you choose at info@higarden.eu.

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