Plant Training Techniques: Shaping for Maximum Yield

How to easily influence the shape of your plants to get the most out of them? With proper shaping, you can harvest a bountiful crop even from a smaller space. We have compiled an overview of the most popular techniques used by both hobby growers and professional cultivators.

Experienced growers know that yield is not just about genetics or nutrition. Plant structure plays a decisive role. Techniques like supercropping, schwazzing, or ScrOG allow for targeted growth adjustment, increasing lighting efficiency and achieving significantly better results. Let's remind ourselves how they work and when to use them.

Topping: Trimming the Tops

A basic technique that every grower should master. It consists of simply trimming the tops of the plants so that branching occurs at that point. Most growers top their plants for the first time once they have three sets of true leaves, with the exception of some specific growing styles (e.g., SoG). After topping, two new tops will grow from the main stem, and the four side branches a level below will grow faster. The plant should thus have six new tops at roughly the same height.

You can top multiple times, but only during the vegetative (growth) phase. After switching to bloom, removing the tops would only deprive you of future buds. The more times you top the plants, the bushier they will become.

Fimming: Pinching the Tops

A pinching technique rumored to have originated by accident, hence its English name "F*** I Missed." Fimming consists of trimming the terminal shoots so that roughly 20% remains on the plant. When successful, the plant creates four or even more new tops close together instead of two. The result is short plants with buds crowded together and high yields.

Defoliation: Removing Leaves

Leaves are where photosynthesis takes place and are indispensable for plants. Nevertheless, most growers regularly defoliate their subjects. Usually to improve light and air penetration through the canopy, which helps prevent mold and increases yields. However, defoliation must not be overdone, and it is necessary to know when and which leaves to remove.

During the vegetative phase: There is a common myth among growers that removing large leaves helps plants direct energy into creating new tops. In reality, this slows down growth. Therefore, during the growth phase, only remove leaves that shade lower branches, grow toward the inside of the plant, touch the substrate, or are in the shade. Also, get rid of yellowing or dried leaves.

During flowering: Although plants still need leaves during flowering, sensitive defoliation helps create a better microclimate and prevent mold. Especially in indoor growing, it is a good idea to strip the plants of leaves in the lowest levels where light does not reach. Likewise, remove larger leaves that shade ripening buds. As harvest approaches, regularly remove yellowing and drying leaves as well.

Schwazzing: Extreme Defoliation

Leaves that receive enough light photosynthesize and create carbon, which is a source of sugars for other parts of the plant. On the other hand, shaded leaves store carbon and photosynthesize only minimally. Therefore, removing shaded leaves helps plants better utilize available carbon and leads to higher yields.

Schwazzing is a method popularized by J. Haupt in the book "Three A Light," which consists of repeated extreme defoliation during the first three weeks of flowering. The result is shorter plants with long buds, even on the lower branches.

How to do it: On the first day of flowering, remove all large (fan) leaves. Not only will you increase canopy penetration, but you will force the plants to focus on developing new leaves instead of stretching the stems; they will remain more compact and won't stretch as much. Remember that by removing the large leaves, your plants have lost a significant supply of nutrients. During the next ten days, increase the nutrient dose by about 20% in a ratio favoring phosphorus and potassium (bloom formula).

Perform the second defoliation on the 20th day of the flowering phase and again get rid of only the large leaves. Be careful not to damage the emerging flowers. In the third week of bloom, the plant has already finished its stem-stretching phase, and thanks to the first trim, the buds should grow close together. After the second trim, the flowers will develop close to each other, resulting in long buds. One advantage of schwazzing is that, compared to the traditional approach, there is no need to trim the lower branches because they will also receive enough light due to the absence of leaves, and you will harvest nice buds on them.

ScrOG: Screen of Green

Screen of Green (ScrOG) is a technique for shaping plants into a horizontal plane using a net or mesh. This has countless advantages, especially in indoor growing under artificial lighting. If you leave your plants unattended, they will always grow more in height than in width. The main branch will then be too close to the grow light, while the tops in the lower levels will receive little light. The goal of weaving into the net is to create a uniform surface of tops that all receive maximum energy from the lights.

How to do it: Place a support net at a height of 20-30 cm above the base of the plant. Start weaving the tops as soon as they grow 5 centimeters above the mesh openings. Gradually guide the main branches in all directions, and once the net is almost entirely filled, switch to bloom and continue weaving for the next two to three weeks until full flowering occurs and the plants stop stretching.

LST: Low Stress Training

LST (Low Stress Training) is a gentle method of shaping plants where branches are slowly bent and tied down. Stem bending can be used in many ways, from spreading the canopy and exposing lower branches to light to training photogenic ornamental plant bonsais. Alternatively, bending can solve overgrown plants in the early flowering stage.

How to do it: Using soft tie wire, strings, or plastic LST clips, start bending the main stem and later the side branches outward from the center of the plant. This will expose more leaf surface to light and encourage the growth of new shoots. Perform LST exclusively in the vegetative phase and in the first weeks of flowering while the stems are still flexible.

Supercropping: Stem Snapping

Supercropping is a technique where you purposefully disrupt the internal structure of the stem so that it bends but does not snap. The plant responds to the stress by strengthening the damaged area and growing more intensely in other parts. Stem snapping is an advanced technique and requires a steady hand.

How to do it: Choose a flexible stem in the growth phase and gently squeeze and massage it between your fingers until it gives slightly. Then bend the shoot in the desired direction. If the branch won't stay in the new position, tie it down or support it. Within a few days, the plant will form swollen knuckles on the damaged stem.

Shaping is the path to better results without having to change nutrition or lighting. Start with simple techniques like topping or LST and gradually discover what suits your plants best.

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